July 10, 20241 yr I came across this in my "attic" recently. Looking at it, I think I could DIY a decent fix, but I wouldn't mind knowing the (TX) residential building codes for any such repairs. The Google gives me nothing. Did anyone have those codes handy? Or if you're looking at this and know this needs a pro, let me know.
July 10, 20241 yr I doubt you will find anything specific in the building codes for this. When we have a truss repair on a project we have to get the engineering (repair) from the truss manufacturer. This is not really an option for you. I would scab on each side of the broken web with the same size board and make sure the ends of these new boards extend 3’ to 4’ past the brake. oh and little chance anything would ever happen even you just left as is.
July 10, 20241 yr I'm no expert, but I don't see why you couldn't just sister another board of the same size to the broken joist. There's a ton of how-to youtube videos on doing it. A quick ai google search says to get a board of the same size and run the full span to where it connects to a beam on each end.
July 10, 20241 yr 1 minute ago, Orale said: I'm no expert, but I don't see why you couldn't just sister another board of the same size to the broken joist. There's a ton of how-to youtube videos on doing it. A quick ai google search says to get a board of the same size and run the full span to where it connects to a beam on each end. That's what I would think and it is super easy. I don't know code though and if it raises any red flags with inspection when selling the house.
July 11, 20241 yr 2 hours ago, Bevo said: That's what I would think and it is super easy. I don't know code though and if it raises any red flags with inspection when selling the house. That's a "then" problem, not a "now" problem.
July 12, 20241 yr Not an engineer but have repaired enough framing to tell you what the engineer would likely say. SYP lumber of same dimensions, each side of the chord of the truss. Glue generously with construction adhesive, and as I assume you don’t have a framing nailer, screw 2 rows of 4” structural screws alternating sides 6 inches on center. I prefer Grk https://www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Fasteners-10-x-4-in-R4-Self-Countersinking-Flat-Head-Multi-Purpose-Screw-50-per-Pack-103141/203525231 congrats, it’s now way fucking stronger than it was originally.
July 12, 20241 yr 1. Looks like the failure happened on a knot. The failure also happened with whomever selected that piece of wood & didn't cut it down to use somewhere else. 2. As noted, sister 2 additional pieced of similar sized wood on the sides & nail away. 2a. Prior to fixing the break, dig around @ the bottom of the insulation where this cripple stud connects to the rafter & ensure it didn't somehow come loose @ that joint. If so, gang nail secure it again. 3. Where do you live? If local(ish), I can loan you my Milwaukee cordless 21⁰ framing gun. 4. For walking around up there (do this project before 10! So you don't melt), Home Depot smhas a ⅝" Tongue & Groove piece of OSB that is 2'×4', sized right for most attic access hatches or pull down ladder. Get at least 1 or 2 of those & screw them down so you don't step through the ceiling. Screw in so you can move the new deck OSB if needed (& cut shallow slots in the rafters if you need to slip some cables in there - no more than ½ inch deep. Spread out some of these runners if you have multiple lines to account for). Edited July 15, 20241 yr by ROFL BOX
July 12, 20241 yr why wouldn't you just pull the piece of truss web and replace? Its literally supporting nothing now. I would suspect that break happened when someone crawled through there, perhaps even during initial construction. Edited July 12, 20241 yr by Incredulity
July 12, 20241 yr 2 minutes ago, Incredulity said: I would suspect that break happened when someone crawled through there No, it is a large knot (sap) in the SYP that died out & it should have been cut down to a 4 ft. piece & used elsewhere or never installed to begin with.
July 12, 20241 yr Just now, ROFL BOX said: No, it is a large knot (sap) in the SYP that died out & it should have been cut down to a 4 ft. piece & used elsewhere or never installed to begin with. I see its a knot and agree it shouldn't have been there from original construction. Its definitely the weak point. My point is that break is a lot of movement(unless OP pulled it apart for photo) for drying and cracking over time without a direct force.
July 12, 20241 yr Oh hell, a couple 2ft steel bars and 4 bolts should splint it just fine. On the cheap, bailin wire and duct tape.
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