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Featured Replies

I am so goddamn pissed off.  Got a CEL, pulled the code, upstream O2 sensor.  $40 part from Rock Auto, secured.  The sensor itself is easily accessed.

The connector, however, is not.  As near as I can tell, it has a lock tab that must be pushed up before the connector can be separated.  But the tab is on the "obverse," you can't fucking see it.  And the connector assembly is pinned/clipped to a bracket with one of those goddamn infernal clips, and the whole thing is covered by a heat shield that I can't move sufficiently out of the way.  If it were rotated 180 degrees this would be easy peasy, although I understand these things can be a bitch to separate.

A fucking plastic clip is gonna cost me like $200.  Motherfucker is sitting there mocking me.

Just venting, but if anyone has any suggestions, I'm open.

 

PXL_20250308_183644632.jpg

Edited by TwiceHorn

7 minutes ago, Updawg said:

Prep it with some gauze pads and Quaker state.

Are we still talking auto repair here?

3 hours ago, TwiceHorn said:

Just venting, but if anyone has any suggestions, I'm open.

Learn to live with the CEL. 

19 minutes ago, Jerry Callo said:

Learn to live with the CEL. 

Until it’s time to get the safety inspection, if in Texas. 

Until it’s time to get the safety inspection, if in Texas. 

Didn’t we get rid of those?
  • Author
6 hours ago, Pato del Muerto said:

Until it’s time to get the safety inspection, if in Texas. 

Driving with a bad O2 sensor can kill your catalytic converter.  And that is often more than just an emissions/inspection issue.  Horrible rough running, plugged exhaust.  I have replaced them before myself, other times let others do it.  For some reason I got a bug up my ass about DIY this time.

5 hours ago, TwiceHorn said:

Driving with a bad O2 sensor can kill your catalytic converter.  And that is often more than just an emissions/inspection issue.  Horrible rough running, plugged exhaust.  I have replaced them before myself, other times let others do it.  For some reason I got a bug up my ass about DIY this time.

What type/year of vehicle?  I hate when they do shit like that heat shield design.

12 hours ago, Updawg said:


Didn’t we get rid of those?

 

12 hours ago, Ghost of NMAS said:

Not in counties with emissions tests

That can be solved by moving to Loving County. Duh.

8 hours ago, TwiceHorn said:

Driving with a bad O2 sensor can kill your catalytic converter.  And that is often more than just an emissions/inspection issue.  Horrible rough running, plugged exhaust.  I have replaced them before myself, other times let others do it.  For some reason I got a bug up my ass about DIY this time.

Well your CEL is already on, just remove your cats altogether. 

  • Author
3 hours ago, Judge Roybeanbag said:

What type/year of vehicle?  I hate when they do shit like that heat shield design.

2017.   It's a turbo 4 so it does get rather toasty in there.  I actually worked it back enough, got a mirror from wife's compact and found the lock tab.  It moved.  But, it seems I also have to push on it while trying to separate the parts and it's a no go.

Edited by TwiceHorn

1 hour ago, TwiceHorn said:

2017.   It's a turbo 4 so it does get rather toasty in there.  I actually worked it back enough, got a mirror from wife's compact and found the lock tab.  It moved.  But, it seems I also have to push on it while trying to separate the parts and it's a no go.

Yeah sometimes you can pry the shield back enough to pull it out, but if not it’s probably riveted on which is a PITA. A good engineer would put the tab on the part that is replaceable so you could pop it or cut it but nah, usually it’s in the other piece.  I see the rivet on the end of the shield now.  If you’re ambitious you can drill it out and replace it with a screw (see YouTube)

Edited by Judge Roybeanbag

May consider asking the local Autozone, Dealer, or Garage for advice.  Others have likely encountered same issue.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Author
2 hours ago, torre said:

May consider asking the local Autozone, Dealer, or Garage for advice.  Others have likely encountered same issue.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah, I think I know what to do, just unable to execute.  And my hand hurts from banging around in there.

22 hours ago, Pato del Muerto said:

Until it’s time to get the safety inspection, if in Texas. 

 

22 hours ago, Updawg said:


Didn’t we get rid of those?

 

22 hours ago, Ghost of NMAS said:

Not in counties with emissions tests

safety inspection we got rid of, smog we did not.

Have you checked YouTube or forums about replacing it on your vehicle? I don’t think you were clear about the vehicle model so it’s difficult to find online resources.

They make a little tool to help get the connectors off with. Not sure if that would help you. If you get an O2 sensor socket, you should be able to rotate the sensor a little so you can see the clip.
A lot of times, they come off easier if the sensor is a little warmer.

On 3/9/2025 at 3:36 PM, T’Boo Ted Marshall said:

Yup. Just replaced both on the passenger side of my F150. Upstream was a bitch to get to.

Two weeks ago on my 2007 4.6 Triton. I had to go all in and cut the wires on the old one so I could pull on the wires with pliers while just barely reaching the connector with the tips of my fingers. 

You can’t tell me that the dealers associations doesn’t pressure car manufacturers to make DIY as difficult as possible. You need to replace an air filter, that requires lifting the engine 1” inch to reach the clip.

  • Author
On 3/9/2025 at 4:45 PM, Nice Guy Eddie said:

Have you checked YouTube or forums about replacing it on your vehicle? I don’t think you were clear about the vehicle model so it’s difficult to find online resources.

Extensively.  There's exactly one video and it blows right past the connector. 2017 Cadillac ATS 2.0T

  • Author
10 hours ago, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

Two weeks ago on my 2007 4.6 Triton. I had to go all in and cut the wires on the old one so I could pull on the wires with pliers while just barely reaching the connector with the tips of my fingers. 

If I did that, I have zero doubt the wires would pull out of the connector and then I'd get to drive it, probably running like hammered shit to the shop.

10 hours ago, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

Two weeks ago on my 2007 4.6 Triton. I had to go all in and cut the wires on the old one so I could pull on the wires with pliers while just barely reaching the connector with the tips of my fingers. 

Done this a few times on parts I knew was coming out..hell or high water. 

See if you can find a video from 1AAuto. I’ve watched plenty of their videos for stuff and they are pretty dang solid.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

So, I just was procrastinating this because I got mad about having to pay someone to do it.  Figured I'd wait for some rough running or a blinking CEL.

Well, the CEL went away.

The code was P015b, which is O2 sensor "delayed," which I interpret as a precursor to failure.  It was also cold as balls when it tripped, as I recall.

Anyway, I suppose I'm still on the hook for the 02 Sensor, but I can safely put it off a bit longer.

51 minutes ago, TwiceHorn said:

It was also cold as balls when it tripped, as I recall.

 

Wife had same thing on her car. Apparently in bitter cold it can be a thing.

Mechanic put it as the car is warm, cools down outside, a minuscule bit of condensation sticks the sensor, and poof, throws a code.

 

 

1 hour ago, TwiceHorn said:

So, I just was procrastinating this because I got mad about having to pay someone to do it.  Figured I'd wait for some rough running or a blinking CEL.

Well, the CEL went away.

The code was P015b, which is O2 sensor "delayed," which I interpret as a precursor to failure.  It was also cold as balls when it tripped, as I recall.

Anyway, I suppose I'm still on the hook for the 02 Sensor, but I can safely put it off a bit longer.

 

you tube and reddit it

On 3/11/2025 at 8:00 AM, TwiceHorn said:

2017 Cadillac ATS 2.0T

I can pull the procedure from GM's service information website for you on Monday if I remember. 

  • Author
10 hours ago, SurlyBDR said:

I can pull the procedure from GM's service information website for you on Monday if I remember. 

Well, that might be helpful.

As can be seen from the photo above, both ends of the sensor are accessible at least somewhat.  The problem is two-fold:  I can't easily get to the "obverse" of the connector to actuate the lock and separate the connectors, and I don't know exactly how to actuate the lock.  There is a red tab that needs to be pushed up and that I can do, but there may be something that needs to be pushed to release.

The service manual may go into that detail, or not.  I can't find anything definitive online.

And, even once I determine how to unlock the connector, I'm not sure I can separate the two ends.  It seems that the two pieces can be quite stuck, so even if I had a tool or the ability to otherwise actuate the lock, it seems I might need two pair of channel locks and another pair of hands to get it apart.  And, at that point, things are getting pretty tight in there.

Edited by TwiceHorn

47 minutes ago, TwiceHorn said:

Well, that might be helpful.

As can be seen from the photo above, both ends of the sensor are accessible at least somewhat.  The problem is two-fold:  I can't easily get to the "obverse" of the connector to actuate the lock and separate the connectors, and I don't know exactly how to actuate the lock.  There is a red tab that needs to be pushed up and that I can do, but there may be something that needs to be pushed to release.

The service manual may go into that detail, or not.  I can't find anything definitive online.

And, even once I determine how to unlock the connector, I'm not sure I can separate the two ends.  It seems that the two pieces can be quite stuck, so even if I had a tool or the ability to otherwise actuate the lock, it seems I might need two pair of channel locks and another pair of hands to get it apart.  And, at that point, things are getting pretty tight in there.

 

Unfortunately, from an engineering standpoint (no, I'm not an engineer-lol), the procedure will likely involve removing whatever is in the way of accessing the connection. This procedure is what they'd use to determine the flat rate labor time required to complete the repair if you took it in for service. A tech whom posseses experience and can complete the repair without having to use that procedure is how they cheat the system and still get paid "1.5 hours" or whatever number of hours of labor for something that takes them 10 minutes.

Dumb question but one that just came to mind- can you crush the plastic on the 02 part of the connection without mangling the computer side, and defeat the tabs that way?  It’s not like you need that side of the union any longer. 

  • Author
25 minutes ago, Jkwellborn said:

Can you twist the sensor any to be able to get to the connector better?

No, it's "pinned" to a bracket.  There is some way, probably using a proprietary tool, to detach the connector from the bracket, but that's another one I can't quite work out.  Although, I did just have an idea.  

Dumb question but one that just came to mind- can you crush the plastic on the 02 part of the connection without mangling the computer side, and defeat the tabs that way?  It’s not like you need that side of the union any longer. 

Yeah, can he cut the wire right above the sensor end?
  • Author
40 minutes ago, Pato del Muerto said:

Dumb question but one that just came to mind- can you crush the plastic on the 02 part of the connection without mangling the computer side, and defeat the tabs that way?  It’s not like you need that side of the union any longer. 

Possibly, yes.  I'm a bit concerned about destruction in the event I can't complete the replacement.  

  • Author
12 minutes ago, Jkwellborn said:


Yeah, can he cut the wire right above the sensor end?

Not sure that really solves my problem.  It's the non-sensor end of the connector that I can't access well.  And then, even if I could actually separating the two may be difficult.

Also, I see from the internet that a common problem is the sensor itself strips the threads on the exhaust manifold on the way out leading to a potential need to chase the threads or, even worse, cut out the threaded lug and weld in a new one.  The way this is shaping up, that would happen to me.

Edited by TwiceHorn

My thought was having that end loose and being able to move the connector more to get a better go at it.

Not sure that really solves my problem.  It's the non-sensor end of the connector that I can't access well.  And then, even if I could actually separating the two may be difficult.
Also, I see from the internet that a common problem is the sensor itself strips the threads on the exhaust manifold on the way out leading to a potential need to chase the threads or, even worse, cut out the threaded lug and weld in a new one.  The way this is shaping up, that would happen to me.

That’s why I quit working on cars. Anything that can go wrong always does. Even for the most simplest things.

I’ll fix everything around the house but cars are just bad for me and I end up pissed off and paying more to fix it
  • Author
2 minutes ago, Updawg said:


That’s why I quit working on cars. Anything that can go wrong always does. Even for the most simplest things.

I’ll fix everything around the house but cars are just bad for me and I end up pissed off and paying more to fix it

I have never had anything go actually wrong, close, but no.  But yeah, I hear you for sure.  And it seems like you need a never-ending supply of specialized tools.  Some of that can be solved with "tool rental," but still.

16 minutes ago, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

Check with an autoparts store. They may have a tool they can rent to you for free

so, a "loan"?

  • Author

Ok, here's a question.  The CEL probably went off because I completed a drive cycle.  I don't drive all that much to begin with anymore, and was also kind of avoiding driving because of the CEL/O2 Sensor.

Should I go ahead and return the sensor?  At first I was thinking the issue would no doubt recur and that the several week delay between the CEL and it going away was because the code was throwing for a while.  Therefore, I figured I'd need it sooner than later, regardless.

But now I'm realizing it probably just took that long to complete a drive cycle and this may have been cold-related.  And I may have a part I'll never use.

I still have a tiny piece of 1 cent molded plastic that I had to buy for like $3 many years ago to disconnect the in-line fuel filter that was along the frame rail of my Bronco…which  no longer have. 

Edited by Pato del Muerto

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