Jump to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Surly Horns

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

Featured Replies

  • Replies 1.6k
  • Views 139.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Most Popular Posts

  • KingBobo81
    KingBobo81

    I climbed the Asinelli Tower in Bologna to get a nice view of the city shortly before sunset tonight Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • KingBobo81
    KingBobo81

    So this fucking ruled - I am staying at Massimo Bottura’s B&B in Modena and did their Osteria Francescana dinner tonight (photos of the property to come later) Sent from my iPhone usin

  • Patricio Swayze
    Patricio Swayze

    That sounds like a good idea.  However, I would have missed this: I didn't realize that the second day in Florence would be the celebration of St. Giovanni and the championshipp calcio storico ga

Posted Images

I used Maggiore, but that was in Scusi.  No idea if they are all over or a local joint. 

Modena, Ferrara, Padua and Verona for daytrips.

Of course if you go to Modena you have to try to get into Trattoria Frencescana.  Are you basing in Bolgna because that's where I'd base.

17 minutes ago, VABuckeye said:

Modena, Ferrara, Padua and Verona for daytrips.

Of course if you go to Modena you have to try to get into Trattoria Frencescana.  Are you basing in Bolgna because that's where I'd base.

For 6 days, I am based in Ferrara, and then for 4 days in Bologna (we are going to the F1 race).

 

I know one of the days we are in Bologna (probably the Friday), we will spend the day in Maranello.  Gotta go see Ferrari.

2 hours ago, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

For 6 days, I am based in Ferrara, and then for 4 days in Bologna (we are going to the F1 race).

 

I know one of the days we are in Bologna (probably the Friday), we will spend the day in Maranello.  Gotta go see Ferrari.

...and go drink Lambrusco in the hills while enjoying typical non-pretentious food form Emilia.  Key.

10 hours ago, VABuckeye said:

Modena, Ferrara, Padua and Verona for daytrips.

Of course if you go to Modena you have to try to get into Trattoria Frencescana.  Are you basing in Bolgna because that's where I'd base.

We did a tour of the Medici balsamic vinegar factory and winery in Modena. Super cool. 
 

https://www.medici.it/en/balsamic-vinegar-factory/

Looks like Italy late May into early June depending on awards flights I can get on Emirates.   Ten days split between Bologna and the Dolomites.   Time to start fleshing it out. 

24 minutes ago, VABuckeye said:

Looks like Italy late May into early June depending on awards flights I can get on Emirates.   Ten days split between Bologna and the Dolomites.   Time to start fleshing it out. 

Good place to stop for lunch on the way to the mountains...

https://www.locandamoscal.it/home

Trento is also a cool town to visit.  Where are you going in the Dolomiti?  I'm jealous.  Enjoy it!

We're going to be in France in March but we'll be near the Italian border so we'll most likely go to Sestriere one day

2 hours ago, texasdago said:

Good place to stop for lunch on the way to the mountains...

https://www.locandamoscal.it/home

Trento is also a cool town to visit.  Where are you going in the Dolomiti?  I'm jealous.  Enjoy it!

We're going to be in France in March but we'll be near the Italian border so we'll most likely go to Sestriere one day

Another completely hidden place to stop for lunch on the way up to the Dolomites. Phenomenal pasta and good beers. 
 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/5ebqdBknXA9SABnZ8?g_st=com.google.maps.preview.copy

On 1/6/2025 at 4:06 PM, Ghost of LL said:

Anyway, on a separate topic--I am in Tyrol for a week this summer.  @texasdago, should I hop over to Bolzano for a day?  And if so, what should I see/eat/drink while there?

 

We did a day trip from Verona to Bolzano, it was well worth it.  Fast train is 2 stops, Trento then Bolzano, took an hour.    From the train station in Bolzano you can walk 5 minutes and take a cable car for a 15 minute ride way up into the mountains, with spectacular views.   

image.png.a10716a81281f6f641b83ee6c73675da.png

image.png.fca20efee6e056bf7eb37258f06e9774.png

image.png.1412f486953e7a59e6abf4cc758ae804.png

Once up top there is a good amount of restaurants and shops.   There is a train up there that you can take to get from different areas.    We didn't take the train and just had lunch and wine in the area where the cable car dropped us off.   Here is the website for the area on top of the mountain.

https://www.ritten.com/en/1401-klobenstein

Question for dago and others.   10 day trip. How many in the Dolomites and how many in Bologna?  50/50 or 60/40 Bologna?   I’m thinking the latter because of the amount of day trips t9 do from Bologna. 

Edited by VABuckeye

2 hours ago, VABuckeye said:

Question for dago and others.   10 day trip. How many in the Dolomites and how many in Bologna?  50/50 or 60/40 Bologna?   I’m thinking the latter because of the amount of day trips t9 do from Bologna. 

It all depends what you want to do in the mountains but yeah more to do in and around Bologna.  

When you go to the Dolomiti, go take the two table cars from Ortisei up to Seceda.  Beautiful!

4 minutes ago, texasdago said:

It all depends what you want to do in the mountains but yeah more to do in and around Bologna.  

When you go to the Dolomiti, go take the two table cars from Ortisei up to Seceda.  Beautiful!

This is the top. 
 

 

IMG_4893.jpeg

10 hours ago, Biff Tannen said:

This is the top. 
 

 

IMG_4893.jpeg

Yeah its gorgeous... 

 

IMG_9762.JPG

IMG_9785.JPG

Cortina or Ortisei to base in the Dolomites?  Right now, I'm leaning Ortisei.

18 minutes ago, VABuckeye said:

Cortina or Ortisei to base in the Dolomites?  Right now, I'm leaning Ortisei.

I say Ortisei, but I’m very biased. 

It seems to be better base with more to do around it. We will have a car so Tre Cime is still an easy day trip. 

17 hours ago, VABuckeye said:

Cortina or Ortisei to base in the Dolomites?  Right now, I'm leaning Ortisei.

Yes, Ortisei.  Santa Cristina and Selva further up the valley and less expensive but all within easy reach of each other 

So, Ive never been to Europe and I’m going to Greece for about 10 days in June. I told my wife if I’m going this far anyway I’m staying an extra 7-8 days and flying to Italy. I want to go mainly for the historical sites but I know it will be super crowded. I’d like to spend about 4 days in Rome and another 3-4 in the south to see Pompeii and maybe Herculean. Also maybe visit Ischia. Based on this thread, driving to Sorrento is a bad idea. I’m ok taking trains but my question is making Sorrento a home base for the stuff I’d like to see a bad idea because of the crowds? What might be a better option?

21 hours ago, SuckitKevin said:

So, Ive never been to Europe and I’m going to Greece for about 10 days in June. I told my wife if I’m going this far anyway I’m staying an extra 7-8 days and flying to Italy. I want to go mainly for the historical sites but I know it will be super crowded. I’d like to spend about 4 days in Rome and another 3-4 in the south to see Pompeii and maybe Herculean. Also maybe visit Ischia. Based on this thread, driving to Sorrento is a bad idea. I’m ok taking trains but my question is making Sorrento a home base for the stuff I’d like to see a bad idea because of the crowds? What might be a better option?

If your goal is Pompeii and Herculaneum and other sites like that, it feels like Sorrento would not be a great base.  Also, good call on Ischia over Capri as it may be less overrun.  

Taking the family to Italy this summer.  Me, Mrs, and the boys (15 and 8).

My thought after reading the first page of this thread and a few travel blogs I enjoy is to fly into Milan, rent a car, and road trip south, flying home from Rome.  10 nights.

I haven't been to Italy since 2005 and reading just the first page of this thread has me feeling overwhelmed.  There isn't a small countryside city I wouldn't want to explore, an amazing restaurant I wouldn't want to eat at, or a church or museum I wouldn't go inside and look at.  So, I have to make a detailed trip plan so we don't muck things up.

I have Rome covered and this thread seems to have a ton about Rome.  But everything before those last 3 days is up in the air. 

I am I making a good or bad choice to consider renting a car and driving rather than train?

I do plan to read all 30 pages of this thread and take some notes.

@BlueGreySky Go spend some time in Maremma... can personally suggest Talamone, the Argentario Peninsula (Porto Ercole, Porto Santo Stefano... also Orbetello is not too bad), go explore wineries in the countryside... you have lots of options.  Cala Violina is supposed to be beautiful.  Punta Ala, as well.  Capalbio is supposed to be very cool.  As you head into Lazio, you have Tarquinia, famous for its thermal baths, Cerveteri, famous for its Etruscan ruins, etc.  Lots to see.

No secret I go to Italy a lot... last train I took in Italy was in 2005.  Drive.  Your options will be endless.

Edited by texasdago

5 hours ago, texasdago said:

@BlueGreySky Go spend some time in Maremma... can personally suggest Talamone, the Argentario Peninsula (Porto Ercole, Porto Santo Stefano... also Orbetello is not too bad), go explore wineries in the countryside... you have lots of options.  Cala Violina is supposed to be beautiful.  Punta Ala, as well.  Capalbio is supposed to be very cool.  As you head into Lazio, you have Tarquinia, famous for its thermal baths, Cerveteri, famous for its Etruscan ruins, etc.  Lots to see.

No secret I go to Italy a lot... last train I took in Italy was in 2005.  Drive.  Your options will be endless.

Second the driving. It’s just a lot of fun. 

1 hour ago, Scary Stranger said:

Believe the signs about speed cameras.

Sometimes.  Talk to locals and they'll tell you that not every Autovelox has a camera in it.  Sometimes they move them around, sometimes they get stolen.  Most rentals have navigators that note them on the map.   The highways have a Safety Tutor system for speeding but somehow a ton of people don't get tickets for hauling ass.  I'm usually skirting about 10 kilometers per hour over the limit on the autostrada.  Somehow never gotten a ticket.  Parking? Different story.  Don't get one.  It can be a gargantuan PITA (and I speak Italian) 

  • 1 month later...

Starting to plan out dinner reservations for a few nights on the trip in June. Any recommendations for an anniversary dinner location in Venice?

4 minutes ago, Scary Stranger said:

Starting to plan out dinner reservations for a few nights on the trip in June. Any recommendations for an anniversary dinner location in Venice?

As of right now, I have reservations at Antiche Carampane, Al Covo, and Venissa when I am there in May. Still pretty early for a lot of places though.  

Anyone have memorable pizzas in Rome? I wanna sample all of the top favorites but have limited time. 

Tried Nerone, Ai Marmi, Dar Poeta. Only one I want to revisit is Bonci (serving al taglio squares). 

So it looks like Summer 2026 is going to be in Italy.

We went to the Eanes Educational Foundation gala Saturday night, and one of the many things at auction was a week at a villa on Lake Como.  And obviously since I'm posting on this thread, I somehow managed to be the high bidder.  So I've got a week on Lake Como.

The kids (they'll be 17 and 15 in Summer 2026) are keenly interested in Rome.  So probably between five and seven days in the Eternal City.

Otherwise, . . . help me, @texasdago--you're our only hope.

Spend a week in and around Bologna?  Or start down in Naples?  Catch a train over to Venice?  

Just please no Florence.  I don't like Florence.

20 minutes ago, Ghost of LL said:

So it looks like Summer 2026 is going to be in Italy.

We went to the Eanes Educational Foundation gala Saturday night, and one of the many things at auction was a week at a villa on Lake Como.  And obviously since I'm posting on this thread, I somehow managed to be the high bidder.  So I've got a week on Lake Como.

The kids (they'll be 17 and 15 in Summer 2026) are keenly interested in Rome.  So probably between five and seven days in the Eternal City.

Otherwise, . . . help me, @texasdago--you're our only hope.

Spend a week in and around Bologna?  Or start down in Naples?  Catch a train over to Venice?  

Just please no Florence.  I don't like Florence.

Fuck yeah Como. I’ve never spent a full week there. I’m sure it will be amazing. What town?

45 minutes ago, Biff Tannen said:

Fuck yeah Como. I’ve never spent a full week there. I’m sure it will be amazing. What town?

I don't have the first fucking clue.  I was chatting with the guy next to me and little did I know that Mrs.LL had seized the bidding paddle.  So if the location was identified, I certainly didn't hear it.

8 hours ago, Ghost of LL said:

So it looks like Summer 2026 is going to be in Italy.

We went to the Eanes Educational Foundation gala Saturday night, and one of the many things at auction was a week at a villa on Lake Como.  And obviously since I'm posting on this thread, I somehow managed to be the high bidder.  So I've got a week on Lake Como.

The kids (they'll be 17 and 15 in Summer 2026) are keenly interested in Rome.  So probably between five and seven days in the Eternal City.

Otherwise, . . . help me, @texasdago--you're our only hope.

Spend a week in and around Bologna?  Or start down in Naples?  Catch a train over to Venice?  

Just please no Florence.  I don't like Florence.

What a terrible, awful dilemma to have.

Just kidding.  I am spending 2.5 weeks in Emilia-Romagna and Venice in about 2 months.  Will update you once back.

10 hours ago, Ghost of LL said:

I don't have the first fucking clue.  I was chatting with the guy next to me and little did I know that Mrs.LL had seized the bidding paddle.

 

IMG_8124.jpeg

18 hours ago, Ghost of LL said:

The kids (they'll be 17 and 15 in Summer 2026) are keenly interested in Rome.  So probably between five and seven days in the Eternal City.

When / what specific time period?

8 minutes ago, texasdago said:

When / what specific time period?

That's part of my question, I suppose.  I think we're pretty flexible.  

Obviously, I'd want to be in Rome before it gets too hot.  And in Lake Como afterwards.  So early June?  Maybe?

1 hour ago, Ghost of LL said:

That's part of my question, I suppose.  I think we're pretty flexible.  

Obviously, I'd want to be in Rome before it gets too hot.  And in Lake Como afterwards.  So early June?  Maybe?

Can't help you on Como.  Rome is going to be ass to elbows packed, as usual.  I love me some Rome and I'd love to visit my family there but, yeah, no.  I was going to suggest going to a beach town on the Adriatic for a week.  Settle in, enjoy the vibe and the town, use a car for little side trips.  Your 15 and 17 year old would probably dig it.  If you time it right next year, you can even be somewhere like Rimini to enjoy https://www.visitrimini.com/en/events/the-pink-night/ which is just a bunch of parties, wine festivals, live music, fireworks, etc. for a weekend.

On 3/9/2025 at 11:41 AM, 52-80 said:

Anyone have memorable pizzas in Rome? I wanna sample all of the top favorites but have limited time. 

Tried Nerone, Ai Marmi, Dar Poeta. Only one I want to revisit is Bonci (serving al taglio squares). 

This place in Monti was amazing. Try the braesola pizza.

 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/9xYwxmwzZR57MxUG8

Edited by elfenix

Best Pizza in Rome, walk go over to Roma Termini, buy a train ticket to Naples, 1 hour later you are eating the best pizza. 

Honestly in my 4 trips to Rome, I think I have eaten pizza once maybe twice there.   It was good, and I'm sure the suggestions are great, but I really loved pizza in Naples.   When Im in Rome its generally snacks or light lunch and wine of course, then Roman dishes for dinner.   Almost any decent restaurant, at least a few blocks away from the main sights have great food.   Im hungry just thinking about it. 

Just an example, stumbled on this place about 2 blocks from Trevi Fountain, in an alley.   Very unassuming, current owner or the chef (cant remember) is a former Roma football player.   Had one of my favorite simple meals I've Rome, probably because it was the last meal before we flew out the next day.   We had a great waiter and the food was perfect.   

https://maps.app.goo.gl/PWJAG9YyDUhc1U639

On 3/9/2025 at 11:41 AM, 52-80 said:

Anyone have memorable pizzas in Rome? I wanna sample all of the top favorites but have limited time. 

Tried Nerone, Ai Marmi, Dar Poeta. Only one I want to revisit is Bonci (serving al taglio squares). 

Roman pizza is different--it's a very bready crust.  Kinda the antithesis of Neapolitan.  

Bonci Pizzarium just north of the Vatican a block down from the Cipro Metro stop is fantastic, but you're already familiar with that one.

3 hours ago, texasdago said:

Can't help you on Como.  Rome is going to be ass to elbows packed, as usual.  I love me some Rome and I'd love to visit my family there but, yeah, no.  I was going to suggest going to a beach town on the Adriatic for a week.  Settle in, enjoy the vibe and the town, use a car for little side trips.  Your 15 and 17 year old would probably dig it.  If you time it right next year, you can even be somewhere like Rimini to enjoy https://www.visitrimini.com/en/events/the-pink-night/ which is just a bunch of parties, wine festivals, live music, fireworks, etc. for a weekend.

Yeah--I know Rome is going to be busy.  Not much that can be done on that.  I'm hoping that this year being a Jubilee Year is going to make next year relatively less crowded.  I mean, that and a recession.

But real talk on Rome--if you book the tourist sites ahead of time from the actual legitimate agency (not some tourist operator), then it's really easy going.  You don't have to stand in lines at the Vatican Museum or the Colosseo if you went online and just booked that shit.  I acknowledge that it takes away some of the spontaneity of travel.    But I'll trade some spontaneity for not standing in goddamned lines.

I'm definitely interested in Rimini and Ravenna.  But you would do that over Bologna?

6 hours ago, Ghost of LL said:

You have no idea how accurate this is.

Quick sidetrack:  neighbor here is a retired AA captain.  His son also flies for AA, and his daughter-in-law WAS flying for AA, but she quit (instead of taking leave) to be a SAHM, and it's a trainwreck.  Neighbor went to visit them, and money is tight.  WTF?  AA pilots make a great living.  

Oh.  Neighbor goes in garage and counts over 50 unopened Amazon packages.  Wife spends all day ordering stupid shit. 

5 hours ago, Ghost of LL said:

I'm definitely interested in Rimini and Ravenna.  But you would do that over Bologna?

All depends on the experience you want.  I'm from Bologna so clearly love it but there's something about an Italian beach vacation.

8 hours ago, Ghost of LL said:

Roman pizza is different--it's a very bready crust.  Kinda the antithesis of Neapolitan.  

Bonci Pizzarium just north of the Vatican a block down from the Cipro Metro stop is fantastic, but you're already familiar with that one.

Its kinda like how good BBQ isnt exclusive to centex anymore. Those other places do good Naples style pies. Just not *that* special. The Bonci stuff floored me because i didnt expect a fluffy square overloaded with a bunch of unusual toppings to be delicious. Complete surprise. 

4 hours ago, Rex Kramer said:

Been here 6 nights and got a few more. Tuscany and Rome. Florence, then il Borro, where we did day trips to San Gimignano, Siena, another day in Florence, Pienza/Montepulciano, and then back to Rome for a few nights. I absolutely could move to Tuscany and we’ve considered buying a place there and AirBnB’ing it. Convince me not to. Love Italy and Italians. 

bullish-bullish-af.gif

5 hours ago, Rex Kramer said:

Been here 6 nights and got a few more. Tuscany and Rome. Florence, then il Borro, where we did day trips to San Gimignano, Siena, another day in Florence, Pienza/Montepulciano, and then back to Rome for a few nights. I absolutely could move to Tuscany and we’ve considered buying a place there and AirBnB’ing it. Convince me not to. Love Italy and Italians. 

Sorry—there are no houses in Tuscany. You see, they’re passed down from generation to generation. So it’s really impossible to get a house in Tuscany.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.